The monopoussoir chronograph complication was first seen on a Tortue in 1928, and was refreshed in 1998 with the blued steel, apple-shaped hands and hollow seconds hand that also distinguish the most recent iteration. Other notable features of the new watch include the chronograph subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, which are operated by a push button integrated into the crown, and a rail track outside the hour markers for extra legibility.
Style Edit: Cartier’s Libre Polymorph collection transforms before your eyes
The Tortue Monopusher Chronograph is also thinner and lighter than its predecessors and houses Cartier’s slimmest ever chronograph movement, Manufacture 1928 MC, which is just 4.3mm thick. The hours and minutes version comes in a numbered limited edition of 200, while there’s also a platinum set version, of which just 50 are available.
Dramatic representations of animals have been a Cartier hallmark ever since 1914, the year that the Parisian luxury watchmaker and jeweller first unveiled a timepiece featuring a depiction of the animal most associated with the maison: the panther. Over the years, the animal motifs on Cartier watches have taken a wildly diverse range of forms, from the directly figurative to the artfully abstract. The house’s latest animal jewellery watch, the Tigrée Jewellery Watch, leans heavily towards the latter, with a striped pattern rendered in hand-applied lacquer that is inspired by the forms of both the zebra and crocodile. Between the stripes, the piece absolutely drips with ice, across the entirely diamond paved case, bezel and dial.Timothée Chalamet’s eclectic watch collection, from Cartier and Rolex to JLC
The Reflection de Cartier cuff watch demonstrates the watchmaker at its most innovative, pushing horological forms into entirely new territory. A journey into illusion and optical trickery, this cuff-shaped watch – which neatly forms a Cartier “C” – snakes around the wrist to terminate in a dial that faces across at the other end of the piece, where it meets its own reflection.
The bracelet is a delicate combination of lightness and solidity, with openworked and polished reflective gold sections. Its white gold comes partly paved with a combination snow set and inverted set diamonds, while the dial features bevelled glass for maximum refractive impact and sparkle.
This year’s Watches and Wonders also saw the unveiling of two new pieces in one of Cartier’s most iconic lines of all, the Santos collection of pilots’ watches. The Santos was launched in 1904, designed specifically for legendary aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wore his while becoming the first person to fly an engine-powered plane in public. The Santos de Cartier Dual Time showcases a grey counter featuring an adjustable second time zone in a subdial at 6 o’clock – it is accompanied by rhodium finished, sword shaped hands and a seven-sided faceted crown.Cartier’s greatest hits: 3 iconic bracelets that stand the test of time
The Santos Dumont Rewind, meanwhile, is a more faithful recreation of the collection’s classic codes – with one major exception.
As the name suggests, the watch tells the time in reverse, with a movement that turns the hands anticlockwise, making it appear to be going backwards. With a platinum case and a carnelian dial, it’s available in a limited edition of 200.
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